Insteon 2 Wire Switch
Insteon Light Switches. Home Improvement. Dimmers, Switches, and Wall Plates. All Dimmers, Switches & Wall Plates. Insteon Light Switches. Showing 17 of 17 results that match your query. Insteon 2-Wire Dimmer Switch - White. There is a problem adding to cart. Please try again. Insteon 600-Watt 2-Wire Dimmer Switch Model# 2474DWH $ 49 99 /inch $ 49 99 /inch Free delivery. Insteon Switch Paddle Change Kit - Light Almond Model# 2400LAL $ 5 49 $ 5 49. Free delivery with $45 order. Set your store to see local availability Add to Cart. If one would repurpose the white wire of the switch loop to a neutral to connect some smart switch that requires a neutral, then that switch would have to wirelessly communicate with a module in the ceiling box, right? So one needs two devices a sender and a receiver/switch. But how would an 'Insteon 2-wire switch' work?
I’m having a terrible time trying to get a three-way switch automated. While the rest of my switches in the house all have a common wire (and are easy to install the GE Z-Wave Dimmer) our Kitchen overhead recessed lights have the simple tap side “cheaped out” with no common wire available. Having an electrician run such a wire through our attic will be $$$$.When I started with Insteon most of their stuff required a common wire but for situations in older homes or where the wiring was expedient (like this situation) they offered an RF Dimmer Switch that didn’t require it. I don’t suppose there’s anything anyone makes for SmartThings type Hubs that could also work without a common wire?It irks the hell out of me since this is a light I really need to automate (and be able to dim). I believe your SOL. I do recall I had to use a regular bulb for this reason.
Insteon Thermostat Installation
I didn’t care as much since it was just a laundry room with a light that only goes on when I do laundry. The older GE zwave dimmers didn’t require neutrals, so you might be able to find them on Ebay or here if someone is selling an old one, but those aren’t guarenteed to work with LED either. In fact, I had a problem with those and my LED Commercial Electric recessed lights and had to swap them out for ones with neutrals. There are at least three zwave dimmers made that don’t require a neutral wire, including one by Cooper, one by GE, one by Leviton, but they are all three only rated to work with incandescents.
There’s not usually a safety issue, just flickers and buzzing.Some people have been able to use them with dimmable dumb bulbs with success, it just depends on the exact combination of switch, bulb, and fixture, so you may have to experiment. Also the buzzing is often worst at very high or very low levels, and some people really only dim between about 30 and 90%. Modern warfare 1 pc download.
Insteon Remote Control 2-wire Dimmer Switch
So it might work, there’s just no way to know ahead of time. I see a lot of topics where being able to point to a FAQ on this topic would help a lot. I've got a few personal rules of thumb for lighting installations, but I thought it would be a lot better if someone who's written one of the ST dimmer handlers wrote it so they could mention anything ST or Smart App specific. So this post is definitely a request for a FAQ, not a FAQ itself. But just to get things started.Feel free to use, edit, or toss any of the following.TWO PHYSICAL WAYS TO CONTROL DIMMINGDimming is either controlled by the amount of current the switch sends on the wire to the bulb or the amount of current the bulb decides to draw from the wire.DIFFERENT KINDS OF SWITCHESA switch that controls the amount of current sent may be networked or not.Some switches don't.
There’s one other alternative to consider. It will work well for some households, but not for others, just depends on exactly what you need.The Lutron Caseta switches do not require a neutral wire and work just fine with most dumb dimmable LEDs. ( Lutron has a bunch of lighting patents, and their engineering is different than everyone else’s.) As of March 2017, they have an official cloud to cloud integration with SmartThings, although you will have to also buy the Lutron Caseta SmartBridge. This is often the best solution for homes that do not have a neutral at the switchbox, you just have to look at the total cost. Using smart lights in a switchable outlet to me just doesn’t make any sense – there’s no way your “smartness” can know if the switch itself is on or off, so you’d have to resort to making the switch inoperable somehow (which for the purpose of the kitchen can’t be done).I appreciate the idea about the Lutrons – I don’t think a lag would be an issue for my purposes, but I think what I’m going to do first is to see just how much an electrician wants to fix this issue (this is the only three way light we have in the house – we have two outside ones but I don’t need to automate them).
I might just have to bite the bullet (it really irritates me that ALL the other switches have common wires in the box – an hour ago I just put a dimmer in my computer room and that makes 8 so far without an issue. Why they had to cheap out and not extend the common wire). Also, sometimes (at least in our house) Alexa seems to be about as dumb as dumb can be.Last night one of our cats knocked down something in the living room (we assumed) making a terrible noise. I said “Alexa, turn House on” (my house group is all my lights) and Alexa said “I don’t understand you” (I was speaking VERY clearly).
A second attempt got about 1/3 of the lights on with a “Those devices don’t support that command” (ALL of my group are just switches). A third attempt FINALLY got most of the house lights on.However, a few minutes later NOTHING I could do could turn them off (I eventually had to use my iPhone to do that). Alexa finally just said “Smartthings doesn’t work” or some such, which is surprising since my phone worked fine with it.There are many times I think Echo just isn’t Ready For Prime Time yet. Some day, but not yet.(Oh, and do I have to add that it would only take ONE time for this not to work that my wife would go to the switch. Her level of patience, on a scale of 1 to 100, is about a -5). I completely forgot the other popular option.Even though there is no neutral at the light switch, there has to be a neutral on the circuit somewhere. Typically that is at the ceiling fitting.You can use one of the in wall micro relays (there are a couple on The official compatibility list) and just put it in the circuit where there is a neutral.
Then usually replace the wall switch with a nonnetworked momentary switch that controls the relay with pulses.Search the forums for Aeotec micro and you will find lots of information.There are several different models, some with dimming, some not. LOL – unless the electrician wants three or four hundred dollars most of these solutions are WAY too complicated for my purpose.However, I got to testing with my Lightify bulb last night because I hadn’t been thinking right – I didn’t think that even if you turn off a networked bulb you can still turn it back on by just flipping the power switch on and off. That was my biggest concern if I replaced all the bulbs and left the switches alone – that I’d turn them off and my wife would go ballistic if she couldn’t turn them on again with a switch (I don’t need to turn this lights on automatically half as much as I need to turn them off).SO I need to do a cost effective comparison. I’d have to replace four lights, and if the cheapest solution I can find is $40 per bulb (and it would cost $60 for the switches) then all I really need to find out is how much an electrician would charge. If it’s appreciably over $100 (two or three times that) then replacing the bulbs makes a lot of sense (but if he can do it for, say, $150 then I’ll go with that route and do it right).Thanks guys for all the input, though.
Now I’m off to price bulbs (these are all recessed ceiling type kitchen lights – need BRIGHT, of course, but I’m not sure what the wattage is to begin with). Just thought I’d cap this off with what I ended up doing.Laid down for a nap (us old people need our naps) and suddenly realized how much of an idiot I am.